Evening Shadow Graffiti in Oaxaca

Shadow graffiti comes to life at night thanks to a streetlampGraffiti on this wall in Oaxaca, Mexico doesn’t really come to life until the evening when a street lamp casts a shadow on the wall. The lamp shines on a bust of Álvaro Carrillo Alarcón. Cute and clever use of shadow.

I also like this because I like random connections. In this case I have to admit no previous knowledge of Álvaro Carrillo Alarcón. Of course a quick search provides some awareness in which I learn that Álvaro Carrillo is a famous composer from the state of Oaxaca. The connection comes in the realization that I know of his music — well, at least some of it. My favorite is Sabor a Mi, I’ve always liked the Los Lobos version.

Although an instrumental version is also very nice.

Here is a shot with the Álvaro Carrillo Alarcón bust.

Shot of shadow graffiti with bust of Álvaro Carrillo Alarcón creating the defining shadow

The small park containing this bust is on Calle de Macedonio Alcalá. Apparently this is quite a musical street. Being the primary pedestrian street in the tourist area, music can be heard constantly — street musicians, marching bands, dance performances, concerts and, of course, a park honoring Álvaro Carrillo Alarcón. The street, I learned, honors a Mexican musician and composer born in Oaxaca. I assume the text on the wall is referring to Macedonio Alcalá because “Dios nunca muere” is the title of his famous waltz. Here is a YouTube video playing Dios Nunca Muere, unofficial hymn of the state of Oaxaca, and views of Oaxaca.

Oaxaca Team Building Fun

Takeoff, a group launch of balloonsThe college sent me to Oaxaca to learn about the culture and bring this back to Portland. Rather than buy small gifts for my work team, I shared a bit of Oaxaca in the form of drink, food and fun. This afternoon we enjoyed watermelon flavored water, conchas (a Mexican sweet bread), and fun with globos.

Globos is Spanish for balloons. At the Zócalo in Oaxaca there are globos vendors selling all kinds of balloons but for our activity the long tubular balloons were the stars. I’ve been told two different Spanish names for these toys: globos salchicha and globos cohete. While they may look sausage-like, for our purposes — and the way the kids used them in the Zócalo — globos cohete (or rocket balloons) seems more fitting.

I’ll be sharing more stories with the group but this bit of culture made for a fun team building break this afternoon.

Fireworks on the last day

One instructor at the Instituto Cultural Oaxaca celebrates with his students at the end of their class. Instructor and students have a chance to carry a beast of pyrotechnical wonder.

Yes, a beast — well, maybe a donkey — but with an impressive stockpile of fireworks as its burden this is a beast not to be ignored. The curious crowded close as the fuse was lit but all retreated as the initial spiral of fire ignited. The relative safety of the fireworks we are used to are not so common here. These spirals of fire engage the crowd by spewing fire — no standing still, you are ready to dance out of this beast’s path.

Oaxacan Art Scene

Evenings in Oaxaca abound with cultural events. Dancing in the plazas, fiestas seemingly everywhere and art shows and performances to keep one’s calendar full. In addition to the happenings on the streets our group was part of the scene at two opening art receptions and took in a contemporary dance performance.

The Instituto de Artes Gráficas de Oaxaca hosted our first opening featuring pen and charcoal works of human and tree forms. The ambiance was enhanced by music that included a bell, champagne glass players and a wood instrument. A truly ethereal experience only to be improved upon by mezcal and horchata. Those in attendance did not reflect the Oaxacan residents experienced elsewhere in our visit. Definitely the art scene crowd of the upper middle class.

The next evening featured Frida, Frida, Frida. Yes, three Fridas. Apparently Frida Kahlo never visited Oaxaca (which is a shame, surely she would have loved it). Tonight’s artist photographed Frida stand-ins at locations throughout Oaxaca and has published the collection in a book. This event was the release party at Cafe Olla. Decor included Frida look-alikes, Frida dolls and art, a seemingly Diego Rivera shrine. Truly a fun party that was followed by a wonderful dinner on the rooftop patio.

Finally, my Spanish class and the PCC group attended a contemporary dance performance at the Casa de Cultura Oaxaqueña. Our Spanish instructor, Argelia, who is both lovely and very patient with our daily struggles with language learning, is also a dancer and invited us to her performance with her company.

The evening started with flavored water and chocolate cake at Lobo Azul Cafe. The rain then washed us to the Casa de Cultura Oaxaqueña. Upon entering the building you are struck by the beauty of the front courtyard. Inside, the walls merrily present art of all mediums that makes for a pleasant environment to learn and share cultural arts.

The rear courtyard was home to tonight’s dance performance of Fractales Amordazados. Five dancers performed a lovely piece that — knowing little of dance — I can not truly describe. We enjoyed the performance and Argelia, our Spanish instructor, is to be thanked for sharing her world outside the classroom with us.

 

Baseball in Oaxaca

View from the stands of the Oaxaca Guerreros gameSome of our team visiting Oaxaca enjoyed an evening of baseball. The Guerreros of Oaxaca hosted Vaqueros de la Laguna in a matchup at Vasconcelos Stadium. On a beautiful night that featured a full moon rising in the a outfield we cheered on the home team. Alas, our cheers and those of the crowd could not overcome Laguna’s batting. An early grand slam was not to be matched. (While it was for the wrong team, it was neat to witness a grand slam.)

Even the spirit provided by other powers could not change the outcome. The Guerreritas, the team’s cheerleaders, tried their best to spark a comeback or at least distract the opposing players with their dancing. They also got the crowd involved by hosting a three-legged race between innings.

There was excitement for the home fans sitting a few rows in front of us. A wave of apparent surprise crested down the row of seats. They had indeed seen something we didn’t. Not on the diamond but under their legs.

A cat had appeared from somewhere and was running down their line of seats. I can imagine their surprise from Disney experiences to have something running and rubbing against your legs especially when not expected.

Don’t jump to conclusions and picture a black cat in addition to a full moon sealing the Guerreros’ fate. This feline fan was a dingy white fellow obviously in need of a home better than a baseball stadium provides.

Young girls excited to be near their favorite playerAll in all it was a beautiful night for baseball and people watching. It was very cute to see, as everywhere, young ladies giddy to see their favorite player just feet away in the batter’s box. So close yet the bravery to call him to turn for a picture eluded them. Just as pitching eluded the Guerreros but at least they played the game. There is always tomorrow.

 

Little Jester and His Friends

Entertainment is everywhere in Oaxaca. Parades, fiestas, music, dancers. This day of my visit was one for dancers. Earlier in the evening we enjoyed a group of seniors performing in the zócalo. These darling couples drew a large crowd and performed elegantly.

Little Jester was quite a showman

Then on the return to my home stay we ran into another dance performance at the Plazuela del Carmen Alto. Children were the stars of this performance which included a deer dance and a lively party dance featuring gorgeous costumes, much twirling and a stellar jester. This was a frolicking dance that the kids enjoyed performing and the audience loved. The master of ceremony was our little jester who took command. This little man was a true performer. Hopping off the stage and into the audience with a whistle blaring, bells jangling and eyes twinkling, he kept the crowd moving, clapping and laughing. He and his friends were irresistibly charming.