Category: Family

Evenings in Oaxaca abound with cultural events. Dancing in the plazas, fiestas seemingly everywhere and art shows and performances to keep one’s calendar full. In addition to the happenings on the streets our group was part of the scene at two opening art receptions and took in a contemporary dance performance.

The Instituto de Artes Gráficas de Oaxaca hosted our first opening featuring pen and charcoal works of human and tree forms. The ambiance was enhanced by music that included a bell, champagne glass players and a wood instrument. A truly ethereal experience only to be improved upon by mezcal and horchata. Those in attendance did not reflect the Oaxacan residents experienced elsewhere in our visit. Definitely the art scene crowd of the upper middle class.

The next evening featured Frida, Frida, Frida. Yes, three Fridas. Apparently Frida Kahlo never visited Oaxaca (which is a shame, surely she would have loved it). Tonight’s artist photographed Frida stand-ins at locations throughout Oaxaca and has published the collection in a book. This event was the release party at Cafe Olla. Decor included Frida look-alikes, Frida dolls and art, a seemingly Diego Rivera shrine. Truly a fun party that was followed by a wonderful dinner on the rooftop patio.

Finally, my Spanish class and the PCC group attended a contemporary dance performance at the Casa de Cultura Oaxaqueña. Our Spanish instructor, Argelia, who is both lovely and very patient with our daily struggles with language learning, is also a dancer and invited us to her performance with her company.

The evening started with flavored water and chocolate cake at Lobo Azul Cafe. The rain then washed us to the Casa de Cultura Oaxaqueña. Upon entering the building you are struck by the beauty of the front courtyard. Inside, the walls merrily present art of all mediums that makes for a pleasant environment to learn and share cultural arts.

The rear courtyard was home to tonight’s dance performance of Fractales Amordazados. Five dancers performed a lovely piece that — knowing little of dance — I can not truly describe. We enjoyed the performance and Argelia, our Spanish instructor, is to be thanked for sharing her world outside the classroom with us.

 

Some of our team visiting Oaxaca enjoyed an evening of baseball. The Guerreros of Oaxaca hosted Vaqueros de la Laguna in a matchup at Vasconcelos Stadium. On a beautiful night that featured a full moon rising in the a outfield we cheered on the home team. Alas, our cheers and those of the crowd could not overcome Laguna’s batting. An early grand slam was not to be matched. (While it was for the wrong team, it was neat to witness a grand slam.)

Even the spirit provided by other powers could not change the outcome. The Guerreritas, the team’s cheerleaders, tried their best to spark a comeback or at least distract the opposing players with their dancing. They also got the crowd involved by hosting a three-legged race between innings.

There was excitement for the home fans sitting a few rows in front of us. A wave of apparent surprise crested down the row of seats. They had indeed seen something we didn’t. Not on the diamond but under their legs.

A cat had appeared from somewhere and was running down their line of seats. I can imagine their surprise from Disney experiences to have something running and rubbing against your legs especially when not expected.

Don’t jump to conclusions and picture a black cat in addition to a full moon sealing the Guerreros’ fate. This feline fan was a dingy white fellow obviously in need of a home better than a baseball stadium provides.

All in all it was a beautiful night for baseball and people watching. It was very cute to see, as everywhere, young ladies giddy to see their favorite player just feet away in the batter’s box. So close yet the bravery to call him to turn for a picture eluded them. Just as pitching eluded the Guerreros but at least they played the game. There is always tomorrow.

 

An absolutely amazing ruin outside Oaxaca, Mexico.

 

A bit of drawing fun in Spanish class today. Damian is my home stay friend.

Entertainment is everywhere in Oaxaca. Parades, fiestas, music, dancers. This day of my visit was one for dancers. Earlier in the evening we enjoyed a group of seniors performing in the zócalo. These darling couples drew a large crowd and performed elegantly.

Then on the return to my home stay we ran into another dance performance at the Plazuela del Carmen Alto. Children were the stars of this performance which included a deer dance and a lively party dance featuring gorgeous costumes, much twirling and a stellar jester. This was a frolicking dance that the kids enjoyed performing and the audience loved. The master of ceremony was our little jester who took command. This little man was a true performer. Hopping off the stage and into the audience with a whistle blaring, bells jangling and eyes twinkling, he kept the crowd moving, clapping and laughing. He and his friends were irresistibly charming.

Another day of classes in Spanish and ceramics. Between classes I am spoiled by comida (mid-day meal) with my host family. Bertha spoils me with a delicious and bountiful meal. Not every day will include these meals so I am enjoying them now. These first two days a short siesta follows comida before returning for ceramics.

Day two in ceramics found us evolving our creations (mine is the slug mug) from rough forms into smooth vessels. This process starts with smoothing the surface with a stick. As it gets smoother a stone or glass vial (did not ask what the liquid in the vial is) is rubbed on the surface to get a nice sheen. A soft sheen is the goal, I’m not sure mine would pass maestra’s expectations.

Our maestra is masterful, funny and loving. A few moments of her touch on our work is magically helpful. Maestra can quickly create amazing works while we struggle. In our efforts we were reminded by maestra that perfection is not the goal. Machines can create perfect copies but we are creating art with a soul and with the unique qualities only our touch can impart.

Our works of imperfection also include a touch of maestra’s soul, making them so much more truly perfect.

Cultural class is ceramics. Enedina, our maestra, is truly amazing and very patient. I’m not sure she liked my Northwest inspired work but she did seem to think I did well my first time working ceramics.

Our teacher started when she was 8. Apparently her maestra was not so patient and would recycle pieces not meeting her expectations. Our class included a 6 year old girl who seems to be a natural.

Magnificent churches abound in Oaxaca. Each spellbinding in its own mystical manner.

Santo Domingo welcomes the world with its neighborly plaza and grand facade. I approached Santa Domingo from the side enjoying the view towards the zocalo and the church bells ringing. I had noticed what I thought was a pulley wheel oddly jutting from the side wall with a cord snaking up at an angle towards the tower. As the bells rang this pulley jerked back and forth. From so far away this mechanism rang in services.

Mass in Santo Domingo was touching though somewhat foreign. Offerings of peace brought a warmth of humanity for this stranger amongst the pews.

The same warmth bathed my first day in Oaxaca. The welcome of my homestay family, shared smiles in the streets, common laughter at a fiesta, joy found in the raucous play of children. Warmth abounds in Oaxaca.

A long day of travel day found us all well in Oaxaca. Our group hung together during the trip sharing our delight at this opportunity to study Spanish and learn about Oaxacan culture.

Arriving late at my home stay, my first goal was to take comfort and prepare for the days ahead. My home stay is in a comfortable home hosted by sweet Bertha and her family. I rested looking forward to the promises of tomorrow — my first opportunity to truly experience Oaxaca and explore its charms.

The first morning I was awakened by repetitive beats of thunder. No, too fast. Gunfire? No, safe to ignore the concerns expressed by media. Fireworks? Yes, celebrations perhaps for the ongoing elections. The boom of fireworks quickly subsided, replaced by the morning chatter of birds busy socializing this Sunday morning.

Later this first morning in Oaxaca it was enheartening to see my host family set off to vote in their presidential elections. Voting here seems to be important and part of the social fabric with my family joined in this election outing by their extended family and children. (Later I did learn more about why presidential elections are an important and sensitive matter in Oaxaca.)

In Oregon we benefit from the ease of voting by mail but I do miss and think we lose some of our social fabric by not having walk-in elections giving us a chance to connect with our neighbors.